The anticipation of countless little boys and girls at heart soon will come to fruition as they look under their favorite tree for a shiny present, faithfully hoping this is the year they get what they want. And while Santa may not always come through, Mother Nature certainly doesn’t disappoint in gift-wrapping opportunities for anglers across the state when it comes to the ultimate prize – a lunker bass.

Spring is a magical season when it comes to bass fishing, and for good reason – there’s no better time to catch the bass of a lifetime than in the next couple of months on most reservoirs and river systems. Water temperatures that have been sluggishly cool for much of the past few months soon will start to rise, setting the stage for the spawn and making anglers giddy with thoughts of big fish moving up shallower.

Though it’s not an exact science, there are a number of facets of the spawn that anglers can bank on when heading out to their favorite fishing locale in coming weeks. Here’s a look at some of those.

Expect the unexpected: The magic water temperature for bass to spawn is about 65 degrees, but some fish will spawn before or after that number is reached. Alan Henry in particular is notorious for having a late spawn, though in some years bass will be on beds in March. This aspect can be good for anglers since it opens up their options. If some fish are holding in staging areas while others have moved up shallow, you can target more water and expect to find fish, including larger females that are looking for a big meal before they spawn. Though backwater creek and cove areas generally are the first places to look for spawning fish in the shallows, bass also could be using underwater highways such as channels to access these spots.

Men at work: The male bass of all varieties (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted, Guadalupe) is the construction worker, building a nest in any type of substrate they find suitable, normally in rocky or gravelly areas, though they also will take to submerged logs and trees. After the female has laid her eggs in the nest, the male will guard over them until the fry hatch. Because the larger females don’t normally spend time on the nest other than to carry out the reproductive process, expect to catch mostly smaller males in the shallows as they will attack any intruder whether live or manmade. On an outing to Alan Henry in early May, I once saw a 3- to 4-pound bass continually knock away a bright green salamander flipped near a nest by a fishing buddy without getting hooked. Even when you can see them, there’s still no guarantee they’ll inhale a barb.

Read the patterns: Weather certainly plays a large role in how bass act this time of year. Cold fronts can wreak havoc with the spawning process, fooling fish into changing up their plans, especially after periods of warmth. Once air and water temperatures stabilize, that’s normally the cue to be on the water in search of a lunker. Monitoring moon phases also is advantageous as many bass, though not all, will lock onto their beds when they’re ready in and around periods of full moon. Since the incubation of bass eggs is aided by sunlight, that too should be something to consider. In turbid water, a bass will construct a nest shallower than in clear conditions in most circumstances. Alan Henry and some other lakes are well-known for their clarity, meaning anglers could find nests in up to 8 or 9 feet of water during the spawn, rather than 2 or 3 feet in murkier locales.

Think outside the tackle box: There’s almost no limit to the type of lure an ornery bass will hit during the pre-spawn, spawn and post-spawn, especially if they’re on a bed or are looking for a hearty meal in a staging area. Critter-type baits, such as salamanders and crawfish – even live ones – surely will tempt any size bass, and jerkbaits, spinnerbaits and crankbaits also will come in handy in the next couple of months in almost any situation. The toughest thing to do is to find a pattern that works, but if you do, you’ll catch fish. At least until a strong norther messes things up.

There already have been 13 largemouths entered into the ShareLunker program this season, including one tipping the scales at 16 pounds, which begs a simple question: Why are you reading this when you could be on the water?

They always put things into perspective.

Take them on their first hunting excursion and the full spectrum of emotions will spring forward at some point. The first critter that pops up brings joy and awe at foreign sights and sounds. The first lull in the action brings sluggishness and usually a nap. And the first cactus or mesquite thorn brings yelps and makes them wonder why they’re even out there.

Though patience may not be a virtue for little guys and gals of any species, I know firsthand it is rewarding to introduce them to the outdoors and all that our world has to offer. Hunting and fishing are pursuits passed down from generation to generation – always have been and always will be – and in many ways this is a blessing and a curse. For past generations, outdoor pursuits were a way of life for youngsters, many times because there weren’t as many entertainment options no matter where they called home. Slipping out to the back pasture, local creek, farm pond or any other locale was a getaway dripping with plenty of potential for enjoyment, while a planned trip with adults was the ultimate in gifts no matter what it entailed.

These days it seems there are almost too many choices and obligations, and outdoor activities get passed over for other pursuits more often than not. However, the next two weekends are tailor-made for youngsters as youth-only hunting dates are set for white-tailed deer, Rio Grande turkeys and waterfowl. The youth-only duck season dates are Saturday and Sunday in the north and south waterfowl zones.

The youth-only deer and Rio Grande turkey dates are Oct. 30-31 statewide.

These opportunities specifically are geared toward youngsters and are a chance to do so much good with your kids, and even if you’ve been taking them for years, it’s still a great time to devote to them doing something enjoyable for all involved. Better yet, offer to let the kids of someone else you know who doesn’t have time tag along. That’s the most important aspect of these special days, not so much the harvesting of game animals, but the overall experience of time spent together watching deer or turkeys from your favorite blind or hearing ducks fluttering through the air.

In fact, taking any animal should be one of the last goals on the checklist. Making it easier to cleanly harvest an animal should be something to certainly consider and you should plan accordingly for a variety of scenarios, but if your young hunter or hunters are successful you should just consider that icing on the cake. Success without a doubt paves the way for future involvement, but having an entertaining excursion while being safe and using the outdoors to teach lessons is what makes inquisitive youngsters into adult hunters and anglers who also pass on their experiences down the line.

The main thing is to be a role model and to do things the right way. Even if you have doubts about your ability, you’d be surprised how much you have to offer a curious tyke. Perhaps it’s taking time to hunt for arrowheads on the way to the deer blind or pointing out other birds and wildlife that haunt near a decoy spread.

Talk to your kids.

Ask them questions.

Give them answers.

Listen to what they bring forward – no matter what it is.

Most importantly, show them you care. Spending time hunting or fishing is an amazing equalizer when it comes to finding things out about people young and old, and it always will be. Get someone away from the everyday hustle and bustle no matter who they are and what they do, and you’ll be able to break down barriers and find things out that you otherwise wouldn’t have been able to.

Even if you aren’t able to make it this weekend, there’s plenty of time ahead to take a little buddy or two along no matter what you’re aiming for. Hunting seasons run through January or further for everything from deer to quail so there’s no shortage of opportunities to get out and spend time outdoors with those you care so much about.

And after hunting seasons come to a close and you put away the rifles and shotguns for half a year, you can pick up the fishing poles and hit the water for six more months of scaly enjoyment. There’s no time like the present to make a huge impact on the future, and in Texas, the opportunities almost are endless.

Field notes: The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which sets waterfowl season frameworks, classifies youth hunters as 15 or younger, which should be noted if you’re taking along a youngster for the early duck season. The Texas Parks and Wildlife Department defines youth hunters as 16 or younger for the purpose of the early seasons for deer and turkeys. A state youth hunting license for residents and non-residents under 17 at the time of purchase is $7, and is exempt from stamp requirements.

That phrase invariably invokes a variety of responses from the average hunter, but for me it always sends icy chills up my spine.

I’ve seen hundreds, more likely thousands, of photos snapped from a range of devices provided by readers, friends and others in my short time of writing about outdoor pursuits. Each and every one documented a priceless memory for young and old, but to be honest, most were downright disappointing.

Today’s outdoorsmen and women have the most advanced tools to document all aspects of their pursuits, but even with “auto-everything” features, great photos don’t simply just happen. Skill with any type of camera mirrors deftness with a rifle, fishing rod or turkey call – it takes equal parts of practice, preparation and follow-through.

Here’s a snapshot of some suggestions for improving your photos in the field.

The biggest aspect of any photo is lighting. The “good light” that makes shots glow in the early morning and late afternoon when the sun is slung low on the horizon is what can make any photo pop. Alas, that light quickly fades, which means most hunting and fishing photos are taken in lousy light – dawn or dusk, after dark or in sun-scorched midday hours. The key to maximizing quality is to start off by keeping the sun at your back or even to your side and working from there.

Almost everyone in outdoors photos are wearing hats, which protects from the sun and adds character, but it also adds shade and cuts down on the main component of good photos of people – eye contact. Sunglasses also do the same, so dispense with them, but instead of removing headgear, add light with fill flash, which will illuminate dark areas and keep eyes from disappearing in your photos. Almost all auto-exposure cameras will do a superb job of this, which will provide dramatic improvement in a number of lighting situations.

Remember when photographers actually shot on film?

I can recall hours spent thumbing through photo albums and slides from my father’s exploits in the field, but today all that exploration is done with the click of a mouse, which isn’t a bad thing. Today’s digital cameras come in all shapes and sizes, and most deftly will capture your outdoor moments and memories. Your selection all depends on preference and what you feel comfortable with. Most “point-and-shoot” models are enough to capture great images, but if you’re more inclined, you certainly can up the ante with an SLR model made by any number of name-brand companies.

Now, let’s look at aiming, which is known as composition. In a perfect world, you’ve got plenty of time to carefully arrange everything before you depress the shutter, but even if you don’t you still can set the stage nicely. Close-ups are much more dramatic than wide shots, so fill the frame with your subject, getting as near as you can so there’s nothing extra on the edges. Speaking of edges, make sure there’s nothing out of place. I once saw a magnificent photo of a proud hunter with a massive West Texas muley, the kind of shot capturing a true once-in-a-lifetime moment. The lighting was perfect and the close-up was spot-on. The only problem was the man behind the lens didn’t account for the fence post that seemed to grow right out of the back of the hunter’s head.

One of the best ways to check your composition is to take a variety of shots from varying angles, up close and wider. You also should try a really wide shot to encompass the scenery. These are the kinds of shots you see on magazine covers where a hunter appears to be in the backcountry, seemingly a million miles from civilization.

One of the tenets of good photography is steadiness. Most blurry photos are the result of shaky hands, though some photographers will claim they tried for an artsy soft focus attempt. Low light especially will compound the problem, but this precisely is why you should bring along a tripod. One cool piece of gear I have toted is a flexible Gorillapod, which you can wrap around trees, fence posts or almost any other outcropping for a quick and steady setup. In place of that I’ve even used and seen others use almost anything handy to build up a steady platform. Maybe it’s rocks or even the top of a hunting pack.

Great photographs truly seize a moment in time, the one that best sumps up a trip or even a season. It could be a bird dog leaping through water or brush, a big bass bursting from the water in front of a wide-eyed angler or a proud parent admiring their son’s or daughter’s first duck, deer or turkey. The most photographed scene is of the proud hunter posing with whatever game they’ve harvested.

It’s also the most abused.

The main thing to always remember is to present the game animal with dignity and respect. That means snap your shots before field-dressing it and wiping off any blood. For deer and other big game, position the animal as though it is sleeping with its legs folded underneath and on its stomach rather than on the side. This should be done in natural terrain, not in the back of a vehicle.

Game shots always are most impressive against the natural background of the sky, so if possible, position the subject on a rise or ridge and get below to shoot up. The antlers of a whitetail or muley will appear more dramatically this way and instead of holding the animal up by an antler, simply support behind the ears. Other variations of game shots include having the subject look at the animal rather than directly at the camera or perhaps walking up to the animal.

Other ways to make great photos is to focus on places and people rather than just a “limit” of birds or fish. Perhaps it’s a hunter admiring a single brightly colored pheasant in the morning glow or a hunter packing out a turkey gobbler over his shoulder in the fading light. The grip and grin shot with a fish has been around as long as cameras have been used to document success. Instead, try to capture the moment of success whether it’s a fishing buddy lipping a lunker largemouth near the water’s surface or a friend netting a hefty redfish.

With practice comes great photos, and even if you’re not Wyman Meinzer, Russell Graves, David Sams or a host of other wildlife photographers who truly are artists, you still can come away with images that will stand the test of time. The most important rule is to always carry a camera. This is where a point-and-shoot or even cell phone camera works great. I’ve had images printed in newspapers and magazines that I shot with either my pocket camera or even an iPhone, so clearly it’s not just a matter of megapixels.

The second rule of photography is simple: Take a lot of photos. You never know what you might catch with your lens and it’s just good practice. Also, be prepared should your efforts catch someone’s eye.

The usual response: “Wow, you must have a really expensive camera!”

A hundred yards away, another more sinister tail was laying in wait.

Our year-old German shorthair pup exhibited the usual tendencies that a squirming toddler would, inspecting every nook and cranny of her new surroundings and having a whale of a time relishing all the subtle nuances. There were basketball-size shocks of bunchgrass that held at least one small covey of bobwhites and two more jackrabbits that were sent scurrying by a prying nose and prancing paws. Every bounding stride seemed to bring more dazzling sights and sounds to the wide-eyed pup, and after she tired of frantically sending grasshoppers fluttering skyward, it was time to get down to business at the bird dog club lease.

She had to track down the real quarry she was here to locate.

Fitted with a thicker collar than usual attached to a lead line, Sadie was passed off to veteran West Texas dog trainer Ray Grappe who proceeded to walk her over to an undisturbed clump of shinery that had a special surprise she never had laid eyes on or caught a whiff of. Nosing curiously up to the clump of brush, Sadie peeked in to see what odd creature was making such a ruckus and got a jolt. However, the charge that sent her reeling skyward wasn’t a bite from the peeved 4-foot western diamondback rattler that remained coiled securely in a menacing ball of muscle, the only clue to its authenticity the pulsating rattles resonating near and far. The real culprit was the electronic training collar draped around her neck, the device registering enough of an impact to make the dog think that the bad boy in the bushes was what actually dished out the harm.

The trainer helped calm Sadie down and allowed her to regain her composure after what had been a trying few seconds. Typically, it only takes one good dose of electric current to hammer the point home that snakes — the mere sight or smell of them are bad — but just for good measure Grappe led Sadie over to a different concealed rattler and doled out a repeat lesson. After calming her down the second time, Sadie wouldn’t even look at the first snake, much less go near it when led by, keeping at least 10 feet clear of the alarming animal.

Lesson learned.

“Snake-proofing” is the easiest and most successful way to keep a dog’s nose out of places it shouldn’t be, specifically clear of critters that can leave more than just a mark, and it’s great insurance to not only keep your pooch healthy and hunting but also to help avoid large costs associated with anti-venom treatments.

Most bird dog clubs across the state offer snake-proofing clinics at some point during the year, while bird dog breeders and trainers often offer the service multiple times during snake season, including in the spring when serpents first become fully active and into the fall when hunting dogs are set to hit the field.

However, the lessons learned in these settings don’t just apply to hunting breeds, and more often than not if you attend a snake-proofing seminar you’ll see house dogs of all shapes and sizes, and for good measure. Any canine living in our state is susceptible to the four basic categories of venomous snakes: coral snakes, copperheads, cottonmouths and most of all rattlesnakes, specifically the western diamondback. The western diamondback’s range includes all of the state except for the eastern portion of the Pineywoods and the northern edge of the Panhandle, making it the No. 1 threat to our canine companions for a solid eight to nine months of the year.

While snake-proofing is one form of great insurance for your dogs, another comes in the form of a vaccine developed and approved for nationwide use in 2004 by Woodland, Calif.-based biomedical company Red Rock Biologics. Red Rock’s rattlesnake vaccine specifically was developed to combat the effect of western diamondback venom, which has a huge range in the southwestern United States, including Arizona and California.

However, the vaccine also has shown success in buying time for dogs bitten by other venomous snakes, a fate that even a decade ago meant almost certain death if a canine was hit with a hot dose of venom with no immediate medical help available.

Marty Janway of Red Rock Biologics said that the company’s vaccine success has been bevied by a need for preventative care by a growing segment of dog owners. She said that the vaccine developed to reduce pain, swelling and tissue damage in the event of western diamondback envenomations also works well in dealing with bites from snakes that dole out similar toxins.

“As far as our target niche, it’s basically any dog that lives, works, plays or hunts in any areas where they’re going to be exposed to rattlesnakes or copperheads,” she said. “It works well with most of the rattlesnakes in the U.S. It also works well with copperheads. There’s a few snakes it doesn’t work well with. It doesn’t work against coral snakes at all. It does not work against the water moccasin. It also is poor against the eastern diamondback, it does help a little tiny bit, but not very much.”

Janway said there are more than 4,000 clinics nationwide that carry the vaccine, including more than 1,000 in Texas.

“The vaccine stimulates the dog to produce its own antibodies so he has the equivalent of two to three vials of anti-venom on board at the time of a bite,” she said. “The antibodies last about six months so depending on what your snake season is will depend on how often you booster. In Texas, we would just recommend that you guys just do a standard booster every six months. And ideally you need to start it at least 60 days before a dog would be exposed because depending on the size of the dog it takes 60 to 90 days — it’s 30 days after their last shot is when they have their maximum immunity.”

Considering that anti-venom treatments can run hundreds of dollars per vial and even then aren’t always readily available in some locales, the price charged per vaccine from a licensed veterinarian is well worth the minor expense. The vaccine only is available through licensed vets, and most charge between $20 and $30 for each dose.

Randy Bullard with the Veterinary Clinic of Lubbock said he recommends giving the vaccine to dogs in the spring and said the clinic charges $20 for the initial shot and successive boosters, which he said are necessary at least once a year.

Hidden dangers come with the territory for hunting dogs and other canines, but thanks to a pair of preventative measures, the lurking anxiety loses most of its bite.

In the case of electronic collar training, it sure beats the alternative jolt.